Bosnia and Hercegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina suffered at most during civila war in Jugoslavia in 90’s. It is still full of unexploded mines and damaged houses. Politically is divided into Republic of Srpska and Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

I thought that crusades do not exist anymore. On the way to Sarajevo I saw Serbian and Russian missionaries promoting orthodox church.

I arrived to Sarajevo late at night. When I was walking to the center I met Grof. Crazy dude like me. At the background is statue of pope.

First night I slept in lovely garden of the mosque. At 6 in the morning prayer call woke mu up.

Another day in the evening I came at the time of service and was accepted although I am not muslim. I observed entire prayer with respect and I also took a part in it which was interesting experience.

In the city center of Sarajevo is Turkish quarter which is lovely heritage from times of Ottoman empire. On the market there is sold lots of products from arabic countries.

On the Sebilj square in Turkish quarter there are all year long pigeons. At the background notice blue tramway that is made in ČKD Prague.

Sarajevo girls socialize in bars where they enjoy water pipes, lime fizzy drinks and chocolates. Drinking of spirits rather leave to their christian counterparts.

Sarajevo men collectively break their brains how to checkmate the others.

Salim who calls himself Uki Grof (in sunglasses) offered me to stay over in his place. He took very nice care of me. He bought me for dinner a burek and made me water with sirup. He borrowed me his pyjamas and shampoo. In the morning he prepared me bread with pate and made me cup of tea. After breakfast he took me to the cafe on the corner where I met all his friends. Then typical sequence of questions followed. Grof works as adjudant of mayor of Turkish city Izmir who is very wealthy and donates to Bosnia.

One of typical plate is Ćevapi that is served in bun together with onion. Locals call it Bosnian fast food.

Coffee – human kind drug is served to copper džezva complemented by some turkish delight like loucoumia.

On Balkan peninsula ubiquitous dogs.

View on Sarajevo from Avaz Twist Tower.

After 3 nights I leave Sarajevo. I walked roughly 10 km out of center on road heading to Montenegro. When I started hitchhiking it was very late and dark so drivers did not really smile. Suddenly a car with Montenegrin plate stopped. It was private taxi driver that went to Podgorica. I told him that I cannot pay him. He loaded me to car in 1 second. While we were going he began to negotiate a price with me. He made me really good price. For 10 euros will take me. However I do not want do pay for transport. Feelings of fear and comfort battled inside me. I did not want to go out to the darkness and coldness. In the end I said no and he dropped me in the middle of nowhere. I got off the car and comfort zone as well.

I put some warm clothes on and walked to the closest village. I came to small village Krupac that did not have street lighting. There were kids running around and when they spotted me the began to make a fuss. Suddenly a man with a torch appeared. I explained him the my situation. He walked away and in few minutes he was back saying to follow him.

He had two houses. In one he lived with his family and in second he accommodated me. Electricity was off so I took a candle that I found and lighted. I experienced amazing feelings of adventures, romance and excitement. It was amazing being without electricity but just watching flame of candle.

In the morning I thanked for everything, took pictures with him and his children and set off.

He gave me a snack where was chicken steak in bun, fish pate and banana.

A man that is director of school in small town gave me a lift. We spoke each other in Serbian and Russian. He also knew latin and as a descent teacher he passed on me lots of knowledge during our journey.

A good few kilometres were left to the border with Montenegro. Border crossing was in mountain pass. There was little car going so I walked. I was hungry and I had no food with me. Eventually I fed myself with stuff I found by road such as blackberry, apples and grapes. After good while a lorry stopped and gave me lift up to Podgorica.


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